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Re: [ihc] High Amp Alternator
At 1:49 PM 7/14/04, Tom Mandera wrote:
>George B Humphrey wrote:
>
>> What are the advantages and disadvantages of switching to a higher amp
>> alternator? What, if anything, would I have to do to the Scout if a
>> changed to a higher amp alternator? What are the advantages of a one wire
>> alternator? I've got lots of electrical goodies running at certain times
>> and am thinking about changing.
The very best way to do this IF you have the room is with one of the big
Leece Neville alternators. They make a LOT of juice at and right off of
idle. A 135 amp rated L-N will make its rated 135 amps--or MORE--under
vile, hot underhood conditions, and continue to do so for a LONG time.
This is quite a contrast to the high current 'rated' Delcos--with which,
once they get good and hot, the output DROPS to about 60 or 70% of their
'rating' !!!
There are lots of the L-N units out there, mounted on IH SV engines--in
dead school buses---so, don't be claiming bracketry problems as an excuse.
The L-N's are completely rebuildable--if you have one with a good stator
and field, you can renew EVERYTHING else for about $130 --diodes, triode,
brushes, bearings, brushes, regulator (which is ADJUSTABLE !!!!), etc.
Why make GM-Delco richer when you can get an industrial grade (and rated)
unit ?? (BTW-- a #4 charging wire is about as LIGHT as I would want to go
with a 135a L-N !!)
I have NOT _ yet_ tried to mount an L-N on an SV that uses the combo
alternator/freon compressor bracket--
Greg
>
>More juice! Specifically, at anything above idle. Sometimes a high-amp
>unit will have LESS output at idle than a "stocker" 37 or 63amp. If you
>do a lot of idling, this could be a downside.
>
>When I put the 392 into my Travelette, I put in an electric fan that
>draws ~40amps when running. The 37amp (or 63 or whatever.. I didn't
>really worry about it before) alt was going to be a little weak for that.
>
>I put in a Delco 12si 94amp alternator. Direct bolt in upgrade for our
>10si 37/63amp stock units.
>
>I did a Ford starter solenoid conversion at the same time. I then
>bought another battery cable and ran it from the output of the 12si
>alternator straight to the Ford solenoid's battery side. Charging
>current no longer goes through the ammeter, though the ammeter is still
>connect and the rest of the wiring is untouched.
>
>I installed a voltmeter to keep tabs on the electrical system.
>
>At idle, it keeps up, until the fan kicks on, then it drops a volt or
>two.. tap the gas, and the needle swings back up to normal.
>
>Little chance of the 4-gauge battery cable from the alt output to the
>solenoid melting down from too much current, too.
>
>-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
>http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout
>Leaving for RMIHR in the AM.. but first there's a stripped wheel stud on
>the Scout to fix.. GRRRR..
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