Re: [ihc] Thanks for the RHD P/S help & info

["Jim or Ginger Aos" <jaos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ryan Moore" <baradium@domain.elided>
To: "Jim or Ginger Aos" <jaos@domain.elided>; "IHC Digest"
<ihc-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 12:19 PM
Subject: Re: [ihc] Thanks for the RHD P/S help & info


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jim or Ginger Aos" <jaos@domain.elided>
> To: "David Bongo" <dbongo@domain.elided>; "IHC Digest"
> <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 13:57
> Subject: Re: [ihc] Thanks for the RHD P/S help & info
< snip>
> > If you would like a picture of the plow in use reply.  I don't have a
web
> > site up for that yet.  If you have time for the down load there are
> pictures with a description.  Just click on the ural at the bottom of my
Signature.
> > Jim Aos
> > jaos@domain.elided
> > Okanogan, WA
> >
> > 72 1310 I.H.C 4x4      244000 miles
> > 76 300D MB               269000 miles
> > 83 Goldwing                203000 miles
> > 94 F350 Turbo Diesel  185000 miles
> >  http://www.geocities.com/eilofaos/eilof.html
>
> Wow....
>
> That plow setup is really impressive.  I like how you did the hydraulics
> too.
>
> Did you make the bracket to bolt up the Hydraulic pump?

    Yes ,  I wanted to be able to adjust the tightness of the beld with an
adjusting screw and locknut to hold it, separate from the p/s pump.  It is
not the ideal design but does work.

> Wondering if that could be a location to put a belt driven air compressor
> for onboard air without having to sacrifice a/c for those that have it.

    It is possible.  First I had to build an extra drive pully.  Starting
with a pully from my local auto dismantler (wrecking yard), I cut the hub
out.  Then I welded a center piece in that would allow the pulley to mount
tight and centered on / in the vibration dampener, ( front pully).  Allen
headed cap screws would be the choice for the mount / dismounting feature.
I found them in nearby Wenatchee, a city with in 93 miles from my house.
Then, I centered the pulley in a lathe, scribed the bolt circle, drilled the
holes, and machined the shoulder for the bolt heads.  In order to clear the
fan when I met an oncomming large vehicle,  I shaved off the the edge of the
pulley flange next to the vibration dampener.  That problem solved.  Later
when I had to replace the fan clutch, the updated version allowed the
clearance needed, without the extra work on shaving the edge of the pully.

    The hydraulic hoses between the pump and the steering gear box, caused a
problem locating the pump in a position that required cutting a portion of
the p/s/p bracket in order to have access to #1 spark plug.  With the
cutting and welding a 3/8" drive socket to a 3/8" swivel then to a 3/8" to
1/4" reducer then to a 1/4" extension, I was able to remove and replace the
plug with little problem.  That unit stays with the truck at all times.  A
1/4" drive ratchet works well.      In my humble opinion this is a project
for an experienced machinest /WELDOR/ engineer,  or a guy like me that
wanted to follow up on an idea, then not willing to quit when things became
tough. In the older dictionary, weldor is a person, welder was the machine.
I am the older person.

    Due to the clearance issue, it would seem that the newer rotary A/C unit
might be in order.
A friend of mine found a vacumn operated air pump that he used to supply his
air tank.
    I have also wondered about an electric pump.  Both of these allow more
freedom of location, with the possible down side of insufficient volume or
overheating, from to much use.

> Nice setup you've got there.

Thanks Ryan,  The kind of comments that you and others have made, help to
offset my awareness of all those things that could have been done better.
Jim A.
>
> -Ryan