RE: [ihc] fuel gauge problem

[Dave Nuenke <dnuenke@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

John,

I hate to say this but, if your T'all has original wiring it's 
probably more than ripe for total replacement. Let's see 67, that 
would be 37 years old, about 17 more than it was probably supposed to 
last..... To be totally honest my 73 is starting to get electrical 
gremlins like this and I've ben putting off the rewire but after I 
did it in my 61 and EVERYTHING started working again I heartily 
reccomend it. Not real complicated in a C series either. Just go to 
the local hardware store and pick up a couple different colored 
spools of wire and a bunch of ring and crimp connectors, and a godd 
set of crimpers. Then start on Friday nite with the shop manual close 
at hand, and start ripping out and replacing, you'll probably be 
amazed at how bad the old wiring really is. I also try to replace 
headlight connectors and such too. I think I redid my 61 Scout for 
about $100 and had lots of stuff left over that I've used since. 
Deffinitly much cheaper than buying harnesses and not really all that 
hard.

Now digressing for the SII and D series pickup crowd. I do reccomend 
buying a new dash harness from Super Scouts because of all of the 
connectors. These usually go bad after 20 years or so... The engine 
harness is pretty easy, and I tend to simplify from stock anyhow... 
Front and rear harnesses are also pretty easy as long as your 
bulkhead connectors are good or you replace with another design. 
Further digressing, for those intimidated by building wiring 
harnesses, or just short on time the harnesses that John Glancy sells 
are excellent, and you can upgrade to the 79/80 connectors for free 
are excellent products, perfect repros of the originals. I just have 
trouble affording the $600 or so for a complete truck for every rig I 
own, so I've learned to build some of my own.

Last comments, honest!!!! Good wiring is really important, BTDT. I 
converted my '80 diesel to gas and did my own revisions to the engine 
harness to make it work with the gas motor (points makes it pretty 
simple), but make sure you do a good job. My first attempt was less 
than so and could have really caused problems. I've grown older and 
wiser since.... As a last note, a fire extinquisher is always a good 
thing to carry in a binder, especially if the wiring is suspect.

Dave
way too many binders to list



> Thanks for the suggestions, Ryan. I have already done this with some other
> circuits, and my plan going forward is to re-insulate, re-wire, and
> re-connect all around as I go forward. Particularly in this case. I will
> solve the problem, I'm sure. The part I'm bothered by though, is the
> apparent connection to the clutch. If the gauge and its circuit is not
> upset, disturbed, moved in any way by clutch movement, from pedal all the
> way out past the slave mechanics, then what is happening? (I've assumed all
> the uncomfortable positions and held wires and/or watched while my son
> worked the pedal, and reported on gauge response) Am I missing the
> upset/disturbance/movement? Do I have a cracked member somewhere that's
> causing frame flex that I'm not seeing? Or does clutch
> engagement/disengagement have an effect on overall vehicle ground? Am I
> starting to sound GOOFY?!! Y'all go ahead and laugh, but this one is
> bothering me, and I bet I don't sleep tonight... Grumbling off to bed, but
> thanks, -John A.
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