Re: [ihc] gold box questions

["T.R.E.Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

---It was good to see Bill M. chime in about this. I would like to nominate
him as the "gold box" expert, considering he has made a successful attempt
at dissecting a gold box and rebuilding it... with an upgrade.

---I agree that the ground system is all but adequate in old rusty vehicles,
Scouts are definitely in this category. What I would suggest is that you run
a ground wire from the mounting screw under the lip of the cowl, along the
firewall and to the bolt that should contain a ground jumper on the
passenger fender. This jumper is listed in the service manual, and stock on
a `78 Scout, is a 10 gauge wire that runs between two mounting bolts on the
fender and firewall and is about 3" long.

---Other grounds that are needed are the two Bill mentioned, the ground
strap to the body from the engine block and a good ground from the engine
block to the battery. One more idea that I and others have had is to run a
10 gauge wire from the battery to the frame. I have since replaced all the
wiring in my Scout and have an isolated grounding system. Simple jumpers,
from lights and such to a known sufficient ground that operate only when the
key is in the "ON" position, I have always assumed, would help the situation
(i.e. turn signals, backup lights, wipers, etc.).

---Remember NOT to leave the key on if the ignition is running. It makes
perfect sense to me that this is one of the reasons why the electronic
ignition fails. The service manuals for the `78-`80 Scout II have an in
depth testing procedure for the ignitions systems. I might have the JPGs of
the testing procedures which Bill M. sent me years ago when I first started
having problems with my Holley ignition. I would gladly forward them on if
you would simply promise me and your Scout that you will buy it a set of
service manuals for Christmas from either Super Scout Specialists, Binder
Books or one of the other vendors that carry them.

---I have since gone to the Prestolite distributor, but there is nothing
wrong with a working Holley ignition. Mine was  wonderful, it was just that
it was more fitting my wallet to swap distributors with one I had in the
parts bin than to buy a new module.

---Your problem might also be in the stator, but I would have suggested you
perform the system test before you spent $60-$90 for a module and before you
spend another $80-$1-- for a stator.

---Using a brass .008" feeler gauge, line a tooth on the trigger wheel up
with the stator (right angle), loosen the hold down screw, insert the feeler
gauge and adjust the "air gap" with a little "drag" (tightness between the
stator and tooth) on the gauge. If it still does not run properly, try a
.007" and then a .006" gauge. I wouldn't try any less than that. If the end
play is wrong in the distributor, damage could be done to the stator if the
teeth come in contact with it. You can try a .009" or .010" if it starts to
run worse when you go with less air gap.

---Thank you,
-T.R.E.Jr.
-`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
-`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
-`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor)
-`49 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mitch and Jena Carl" <mjcarl@domain.elided>
To: "Scout digest" <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Wednesday, November 26, 2003 7:49 PM
Subject: [ihc] gold box questions


> hi all, after some intermittent problems w/ my scout ('77, 345) suddenly
> dying and then being fine, i replaced the gold box.  after replacing the
> gold box (napa #tp85) the truck starts, but runs really  rough and won't
> stay running at idle.  does replacing the box effect the timing?  is there
> something else that needs to be checked after replacing it?  i took the
box
> back and received a new one to eliminate that, and it does the same thing.
> thanks.
>
> mitch