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RE: [ihc] Different Axle Widths on T'All
Allan E. says the widths and mount points are pretty much close enough
to call the same from early '60s through the end of production.
I made my '74 200 Travelette 4X4 utilizing a '74 4X4 200 parts truck.
If you plan to use a later drive train, I would recommend the same
approach. Buy a rusty, nasty, hail damaged parts truck for a couple
hundred and start swapping. A side benefit is the wonderful lawn
ornament/spaceship for the kids you end up with.
Ask for specifics brakes/drums/steering as you get closer and you will
get some good answers. Beware of the little costs though that you just
as well do while in there. U bolts, U joints, brake
pads/cylinders/lines, wheel bearings. Beware also of big costs like
rotors for a 4X4 200 are like $250 each.
I would recommend you keep your eyes open for a cheap '74/'75 100 or 150
4X4 if you want disk brakes. They did do open knuckles before that, but
with drum fronts. That would maybe allow the use of your stock master
cylinder.
Ed Sohm
Battle Creek, IA
'71 800 B
'74 200 4X4 Travelette Camper Special
+ a bunch more
-----Original Message-----
From: John M. Adams [mailto:jma@domain.elided]
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 11:38 AM
To: Ed Sohm; ihc@domain.elided
Subject: RE: [ihc] Different Axle Widths on T'All
Thanks, Ed. That has been my general plan for a while now, to upgrade
to 70s front end. In fact, maybe go with the whole drive train - better
steering, better braking, newer (and hopefully better) springs. But I
haven't dived into the specifics yet (dimensions, mount points, etc.)
It's a "someday" thing... -John
P.S. No salesman here. I'm afraid I just buy stuff...
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Sohm [mailto:idaemes@domain.elided]
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 10:08 AM
To: 'John M. Adams'; 'Ryan Moore'; ihc@domain.elided
Subject: RE: [ihc] Different Axle Widths on T'All
John,
I would assume that the sharper turning axles would be the later open
knuckle ones. Look for '74/'75 pickups/Travelalls.
I can't say why they would build the front wider than the rear, but will
tell you it seems to be not uncommon. My '96 Suburban is that way. The
salesman said that it had to do with the fact that they needed more room
when making the IFS stronger on it because it is a 3/4 ton. You know
how salesmen can be.
Oops, we don't have any used car salesmen on the list, do we?
Ed Sohm
Battle Creek, IA
'71 800 B
'74 200 4X4 Travelette Camper Special
+ a bunch more
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-ihc@domain.elided [mailto:owner-ihc@domain.elided] On Behalf Of
John M. Adams
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 10:35 AM
To: Ryan Moore; ihc@domain.elided
Subject: RE: [ihc] Different Axle Widths on T'All
Ryan, I definitely don't want to degrade my (FA-16, 17 degree?) turning
radius. It's already tough enough to make u-turns, and negotiate tight
parking lots... I read in my service manual (CTS-2312) a chapter on the
"40 degree steer front driven axles". If I can ever figure out which
half ton 4x4 that was standard in, I'd like to find one, and maybe do
a swap. Thanks for the info - I'll leave the footprint alone. -John
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Moore [mailto:baradium@domain.elided]
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2003 6:23 AM
To: John M. Adams; ihc@domain.elided
Subject: Re: [ihc] Different Axle Widths on T'All
----- Original Message -----
From: "John M. Adams" <jma@domain.elided>
To: <ihc@domain.elided>
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2003 12:31
Subject: [ihc] Different Axle Widths on T'All
> Here's a question I posted on BB with no takers yet, thought I'd try
it
here
> as well:
>
> On my 67 Travelall, with stock Dana 44s front and back, there's a
difference
> in the drum to drum dimension. The front is wider than the rear by
about 4
> inches (haven't measured lately, but that's my best recollection from
when
I
> did). So the front tires stick out 2" (+/-) further than the rears
from
the
> wheel wells. I'd like them to be the same. Can anyone see a problem
with
me
> doing one of the following: 1. running wheels with a different center
offset
> front and back, or 2. installing a spacer (and longer studs) between
the
> rear wheels and drums to equalize the width. Or is there a good reason
to
> leave the tread to tread footprint alone? (Why was it built this way?)
> Thanks for any thoughts on this... -John
>
It's supposed to be like that... running a difference center offset
(or
spacer) can be a little bit harder on your bearings.... the tread
footprint
like that gives you a better turning radius than if they were the same
width. If you look at the old f@rd longbeds the difference is extreme,
for
the same reason...
-Ryan
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