Re: Steering wheel keyed to column shaft

["Jim or Ginger Aos" <jaos@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Allan,
        After all that, I upgraded the front squishy bushing for one I made
out of acetyl-sp? plastic, (The stuff that lines dump truck beds).  Then I
heard about the poly stuff and that might work well?   Jim G. and Tom are
both right about the drag link with the TRE's being too large.  When I did
mine I knew nothing about this list, nor any of the helpful suppliers.  They
can save a lot of time and frustration.
Cheers Jim A.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allan W." <allanw@domain.elided>
To: "Jim or Ginger Aos" <jaos@domain.elided>
Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Steering wheel keyed to column shaft


> Jim,
>   So you did this swap, and the blazer has the wrong taper on the ends?
> I understand what you mean by the stabilizer, though most rigs have them
> on both sides if they have them.
>
> My other idea is to use two tierod ends, I believe that the pickup
> drag links have the same taper as the original drag link.  All I would
> need is something like those trick tierods that Fleck sells for Scouts,
> just a whole lot shorter.
>
> I also have some different springs and new bushings for the front,
> I just have not installed them yet.  I guess I should do that first,
> I just have to get some time to do it.
>
> Allan
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim or Ginger Aos" <jaos@domain.elided>
> To: "Allan W." <allanw@domain.elided>; <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 1:17 PM
> Subject: Re: Steering wheel keyed to column shaft
>
>
> > Allan,  When I changed the 1200 D over to the Blazer draglink, I had to
> > change the ends on the steering and pitman arms.  Another possibility of
> > alignment is to make an adjustable stabilizer from the left side of the
> > front axel to the frame near to the non shackled end of the spring.
Then
> > you can loosen the spring to axel connection and in effect lengthen or
> > shorten  the stabilizer to allow the draglink to center the steering
> wheel.
> > I did that and after which, when I steped on the brakes, I no longer had
> to
> > correct for a turning left, due to the spring moving in the flexible
> > bushing.  If interested I can describe the stabilizer Cheers Jim A.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Allan W." <allanw@domain.elided>
> > To: <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
> > Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2003 9:06 AM
> > Subject: Steering wheel keyed to column shaft
> >
> >
> > > I don't know about Scouts, but on my 72 pickup, the steering wheel
> > > is definitely keyed to only fit with one alignment to the shaft.
> > > On the splines all around it, there is exactly one spline that
> > > is not cut into the shaft.  The steering wheel has the same missing
> > > mating spline.  Thus it only goes on ONE way, and it is not
> > > centered.  I have reasoned that it is built this way to ensure
> > > the steering box is centered when the steering linkage is
> > > adjusted correctly.  The tightest point on a Saginaw box is
> > >  the straight ahead position.
> > >
> > > This came about when I replaced the drag link.  On a (72) pickup
> > > the drag link goes to a steering arm on the driver's side and
> > > it isn't adjustable.  I've been researching methods for fitting
> > > an adjustable link.  I believe one from a fullsize Blazer will fit,
> > > but have never gotten around to testing that theory.
> > >
> > > Allan W.