Re: Bump Steer, Steering Components, Hemi-Joints

["T.R.E. Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Bade" <jbade@domain.elided>


<snip>
> Take a look at the rod ends that are installed on the new scout.
> Anyone else use these instead of the stock tie rods?
> Or could this be part of my bump steer?
>
> http://www.chronicmadness.com/midas/joint.jpg
> http://www.chronicmadness.com/midas/joint1.jpg

---I have never used that type of tie rod end, but I have heard that they 
are more dependable and give better performance than original. That is to 
say, if they were rated for the vehicle they are on. Not saying the ones for 
a lawnmower will work on a Scout II. How are they for play? They don't look 
greaseable I would think maybe they are worn.


<snip>
> The Bump steer is worse the faster you go. It tracks straight, the 
> steering
> components all seam tight. Although the bolts on these joints where 
> loose..
> they need a jam nut on them or something.. I could see these coming loose
> all the time..

---I would look into the alignment of the front end. It seems to me from the 
pic that the driver's side tire is looking more than a little feathered. on 
the inside tread.


<snip>
> The Chicago potholes make me have to stay alert when driving in traffic..

---Chicago pot holes are what did my `78 body in and what caused the 
rag-joint to tear in half eventually. It was IIRC around 75th and Pulaski 
that I hit the one that caused the driver's side body mount on the radiator 
frame to collapse.


<snip>
> Anyone got any more Ideas on where to start?

---Ball joints. How do the ball joints look and how is the caster? Is the 
Midas shop still open on 111th and Cicero? Take it in and have them do a 
alignment inspection, they usually run free inspections.


<snip>
> I'd also like to have a tighter Steering wheel...
> More road feel.. less play.. I am going to replace the rag joint with a
> u-joint...
> What about a lower pressure PS Pump or a specially built gearbox?

---I don't see anything wrong with the pressure behind the power steering 
pump or the ratio of the gear box. In your situation, I would think if you 
went with a u-joint rather than an entirely new column and steering shaft, 
you would be asking for more severe problems in the future. The Scout II 
(tilt-o-matic I think it was called, tilt-o-scope was used in the Cadillac 
and could be adjusted in and out as well as up and down) steering column was 
built to collapse on impact. The flexible coupler (rag-joint) is also a 
steering dampener. Getting rid of the shock absorbing quality of the 
rag-joint can damage the plastic pins that hold the steering column 
together.

---Getting rid of the air in the system, adjusting the gear box and adding a 
straight steer should cure most problems. Replacing the u-joint with the one 
discussed last week here on the Digest (from NAPA) will definitely cure 60% 
of the wandering and replacing the rag joint with a new rubber doughnut will 
make you and your steering column happier.

---Bad body mounts could cause some problem. Bad ball joints will make you 
hop all over the road when you so much as hit a puddle. My `69 Scout used to 
go crazy on the way to the Dan Ryan from Burbank (Cicero/Pulaski again) when 
it was raining. Take it in and have it looked at.

---Also make sure that your tires are not only the same size, but the same 
height. Just because it says it is a 235 75 R15 doesn't mean they are 
identical even if they are the same company. One tire could be made for a 
rim that is 2" wider and the tire could be 1/2" taller when mounted on your 
rim. Tire companies sizes vary as much as the difference between jean 
companies' sizes and if you are mixing brands, chances are your pull to the 
side is due to one tire being shorter than the other.

---Thank you,
-T.R.E.Jr.
-`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
-`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
-`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor)
-`49 Plymouth Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)