Re: Fuse box, dash restoration questions

["Thomas R. Elliott Jr." <T_R_E_Jr@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

---About the fuse panel. You can take any fuse box from any vehicle and make
your own using new terminals from a company like Waytek or Cinchtech (is it
"Cinchtech"?). You can purchase an expensive panel from any of the
aftermarket companies, or you can rebuild your old panel with new terminals
from the companies like the ones mentioned above. I have a mini fuse panel
from wire-works that has a lifetime warranty. That alone I think costs close
to $150. That will have more circuits than you need for the OEM wiring,
plenty for add-ons.

---As for the dash, get yourself some strong adhesive and visit a tack shop
for some doe skin or other treated and buffed leather. Wet the leather down,
wrap the dash and use stick pins to hold it in place until it dries. After
it dries, apply the adhesive to the dash, wrap it again and use the stick
pins to hold it in place. Trim off the excess leaving 1" overlapping and
there ya have it, a leather dash for about 1/2 the cost to have an
upholsterer do it.

---Thank you,
-T.R.E.Jr.
-`73 Scout II (StoneThrower)
-`51 Farmall H (Heinz)
-`49 IH fridge (presently unnamed and in need of a compressor) -`49 Plymouth
Special Deluxe 4-door Sedan (Papapalooza)


----- Original Message -----
From: "David Bongo" <dbongo@domain.elided>
To: "IHC Digest" <ihc-digest@domain.elided>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2003 7:17 PM
Subject: Fuse box, dash restoration questions


> I'd like help with two current projects I have on my postal Scout.
>
> First, the fuse box.  The truck currently has an old fuse box in there,
> with the clear cylindical type fuses.  Is there an easy way to convert
> that to the newer style used in "modern" vehicles?  i.e. The
> rectangular, multi-colored push-in type fuses?  This isn't a "must-do"
> job, but something that I would like to do.
>
> Secondly, the dash pad.  I've been driving (and delivering) without it
> for 3 weeks.  There's a reason for that.  Apart from being dirty (I
> figure a tough-task cleaner/degreaser like "Superclean" can take care of
> that), the vinyl is cracked and peeling in some areas.  Which is bad
> enough, but in some places, it's not just the vinyl that's cracked.  The
> crack is a good 1/2 inch deep.  And then there's a half-dollar sized
> chunk torn out of the top at one place.  The problem is, I can't just
> chuck it and put in one from another Scout.  The RHD dash is different,
> so I've got to try and restore the one I have.  Here's my plan, and I
> welcome any comments/suggestions.  Or an alternative if I'm way off
> base.
>
> After cleaning it, I'm figuring on using a 2-part epoxy to fill in the
> cracks and, hopefully, help bind it together.  I'm not sure what type of
> filler to use on the missing chunk.  It'll take a LOT of epoxy there,
> and it might not even be the right stuff for such a large area.  The
> final step would be to put some sort of new covering on it.  I was
> thinking vinyl or outdoor carpeting.  Upholstery isn't my thing, but
> I'll give it a shot.  I prefer the "fake leather" feel of vinyl, but I'm
> not too picky.
>
> The only other thing I can think of doing would be coating the dash,
> after filling the holes in, with fiberglass or something to give a
> better surface for the top material to bond to.  (For those of you who
> watch THE NEW YANKEE WORKSHOP I'm thinking something like Norm did when
> he built a boat.)
>
> Plan B is to try and make something out of wood.  Give me Norm Abram's
> workshop, and I'll think about doing it right.  With what I have, it
> would be a hack job, and probably not worth considering.
>
> Everyone's input is appreciated.  Thanks,
>
> Dave