Re: Ambition & Update

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

Well, for the record..

Work hours are something like 8-5, but flexible.  I usually get up late
(since I was.. uhh. up late) and end up here before 9.  Either skip
lunch, or spend lunch at the steel supplier getting stuff (not open
after 5)... which puts me here until 6pm.

Race home (my 10 minute commute! heh), change clothes, check any new
e-mail, and head outside.

Try to stop the loud and obnoxious stuff before 10 if I can help it.. so
from 10-1am it's either drill-press and welding, or hand tools... no 4"
Makita, chop saw, or impacts.

So.. an update on my "total to racer in a week" project..

Spent too much time getting it to run last night.  After I picked the
front axle up, tried it once more, and it barked (loudly) to life at
9:30pm w/o an exhaust.  Only ran for a few seconds at a time (hard to
work throttle from the passenger side of the motor when you have to
"wrench" the starter).  In that short time, my "short circuit" hose on
the A/T lines leaked a bunch, but the pump input seal apparently
didn't.  I remembered I forgot to flare the AT lines, so the clamps
didn't work super-well.  But I'll take it as a "good" sign that I won't
need a gallon of ATF to make one 100-yard pass...

I used two 60" battery cables (spray painted one black) to run from the
starter (and the Alt mounting bracket) through the heater box hole and
into the cab.  I guess the battery goes on the passenger floor for the
week.  I'm going to buy two plastic battery trays.. one for under the
batt, one on top (must have non-combustible material cover for in-cab
mounted batteries).

I think for the ignition, since the column switch is dead, I'll crimp a
wire to the + battery terminal, put a switch in line, and run it to the
coil (and/or bulkhead if I need that to run).  Then another wire from
the batt, to a momentary ON, and to the starter relay.

That should cover starting n' running.  No idea on tail lights and such
yet.  I'll go through the factory wiring next week.

After the motor ran, I put the front axle in.  Chevy 1/2T Dana 44. 
Here's a funny.. rear axle is a '63 Travelall, with.. I don't remember
the year 4.88s.  Front is a '74 Chevy, which now has '63 Scout 80 Dana
44 4.88s in it.  I wonder if my rear 4.88s were from a '74? ;-)

Bolted the front in, put the axle shafts in, spindles, brake bracket,
hubs, rotors, lock-outs, etc.  Front axle is complete.  I need to
Permatex the diff cover and fill.  10 new lug-nuts are on the wheel
studs.

I checked my front driveshaft to see if it's long enough.. it's from a
'72 Scout II w/ a 727 auto and Dana 30 front.. and it fits quite nicely
on my spring-over (w/ 72 springs) with 727 and Dana *44* front.  The '30
shaft should be longer by 1", and that works great with the spring over
(just like the rear "stick" driveshaft that's ~ 1" over the stock AUTO
'shaft, in a spring-over)

That's another *whew*.. I'll have 4wd.

Tonight I'll put the calipers back on, and hook up the front brake hard
line and fleixble lines (from a '74 2wd Chevy - longer than the 4wd). 
I'll then put the proportioning valve in, hook the front and rear line
up to the system, and bend new hard lines for the rear housing and
attach 'em.  Hopefully I'll then put fluid in, and it'll all work after
some bleeding.  This is the single biggest "hang-up" at this point!

If I get working brakes, I then mount the radiator and hook up the stock
trans cooler n' rad lines, and change the oil..  then put gas in the
tank, patch the fuel line, hook up the shifter, and cross my fingers.

That still leaves the actual mounting of the seat, attaching the exhaust
(I have dual glasspacks, but I don't *need* an exhaust to race.. so if
it doesn't get done, it doesn't get done), and the front-clip mounting
system (I want to drive the racer to the front of the garage and
in-reach of the welder)

*Whew*.. lots to do but not too much.

Next week, tail lights, head lights, turn signals, key switch... then
there's still bump stops n' new shocks to get.

Oh yeah.. I have a stock 3-row w/ AT cooler radiator.  I should replace
the hard-lines from it.  What size steel line do I need?  Ii'll also
need a short piece of flexible hose to hook the Trans lines to the
cooler lines.. I assume it's the same size stuff.  Anyone know the size
of line I need?  Otherwise, it's go home and *then* hit the parts
store.. 

-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout
'76/77/78 Scout II, Chevy Dana 44 front, Travelall D44 rear, 4.88 gears,
open/open, 304, race prepped 727, D20, spring-over w/ '72 SII springs,
full rollcage, racing bucket, 5pt harness, one-piece tilt front clip.