Re: Spring over questions.

[josad@domain.elided]

On Thu, 15 Apr 1999 13:03:40 -0600 Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided> writes:
>josad@domain.elided wrote:

>When it comes time for the swap, you'll just need to remove the 
>knuckles
>from your running axle (after you pull the hubs/rotors/spindles) and
>swap it across.  Axle shafts'll be ready n' such.. and reassemble the
>ends.

ok, big questoin here:  any special tools needed?  I've never torn down a
front axle before, so I don't want to find out I need some tool before I
can put the outer parts on?  i'd have to go look, but aren't the knuckles
connected by u-joints?  just replace those? (might as well...)

>> >So where's that cheap? ;-)  Compared to my $800 or better in a
>> >spring-under lift?  No new driveshafts, but 4 new springs, 
>shipping.
>> >Both lifts share longer brake lines and shocks.
>> 
>> cheap?  well I'm doing almost all the labor myself, except mounting 
>tires
>> and twisting axle, I could take it to a local shop, pay 2-3K for 
>them to
>> do it....
>
>What I meant was - the Spring Over will cost you every bit as much as 
>a
>4" suspension lift "off the shelf".  SO would cost more if you don't 
>do
>the labor yourself.  It's still not "cheap".. the two lifts are about
>comparable on price - though after living with a 4" suspension lift 
>for
>a year, I have to think the spring over would be the way to go for an
>off-road play-thing and daily driver.  I dunno.. ask me in another 
>year
>after I have a spring over how well I like it... ;-)

si, but I can spread it out a bit more.  buy the axle.  wait till next
payday, have it assembled, wait till next, buy metal needed, fabricate
the parts needed.  then run up to WY for a weekend (if I can't get a week
off), and weld together the cage / install it and seats aslong as you're
there, weld the spring pads on the front axle.  run up another weekend,
weld the pads on the rear, flip the springs in back.  finish assembling
the new front axle, put it under.  cut the drag link, slip on the z-drag
link you've already made out of square tubing into place, and weld it up.

shock extenders areabout $2 each, we'll use them here as we're just gonna
drive backe to SLC, where we're going to take proper measure measurements
and vuy the right ones.

for on road only, the rear drive shatft should work, the fron'ts still
off.  so wait a bit before calling six states for the drive shafts.

I think if I needed to, i could spread the cost out about 3 months and
still not have it undriveable for more than 1 day 

Joe

>-Tom

Joe Dufresne email (normal) Josad@domain.elided email (with attachments)
josad76@domain.elided, ICQ #25751950, homepage
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avadiable upon request

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