Tidbits we found

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

Between the drum/drum early Scout IIs and the disc/drum later models,
you can change the junction block at the driver's front wheel in the
brake line from one to the other and use a disc/drum proportioning valve
with the original drum front brake line loop.  Just change the block
(found this when we put a 75 body n' such on a 72 frame).  

Unsure what adapter we need to adapt the rear hard line on the '72 frame
to the '75 prop valve.

I'm going to take the rear line from the bent '75 frame and use it on my
racer.. along with the front line from the same frame - though now *I*
need a new junction block to mate to my disc/drum prop valve! ;-)

Towed Ben's '75 over to HIS garage yesterday.. it's no longer my
responsibility.. my driveway is clear, and I can concentrate on turning
wrenches on MY trucks again..

I did get the rear T'all axle installed and the 72 non-HD springs got
their center bolts drilled to 3/8" (pretty easy with my 1/2" hand drill)
and installed in the rear.  Looking at it, the truck sits with the
springs just about flat at-rest.  Maybe I did want to move the center
bolt back.. I'll find out soon enough I guess.  I don't have tires for
the racer yet anyhow, so it'll be running some P235/75R15s!!  If *they*
rub... yikes!

We pulled the hardtop off.. 

On the '63 T'all rear axle with the tapered axle shafts - the big nut
thing - do I adjust it to "zero endplay" like my gear-knowledgeable
friend said.. or is there a torque setting I want?  If torque, where do
I find a wrench for this monster nut!  (I need to soak it in WD40 for a
while first..)  I'm hoping to put the 'shafts and brakes in tonight.

Does Dan Nees have a running rig yet? ;-)

-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout