Re: Gas Tank Flush(very long reply)

[jwynne2@domain.elided]

Hey Michael and all,

I used a product that was listed in JC Whitney on My Scout Terra's fuel
tank about a year ago, and so far it has worked for controlling interior
corosion.  I also have used this same product for my 240Z, which are known
for the fuel tanks rotting from the inside out.

I don't know the makers of this stuff off hand, but I have one more kit
left over for my dad's car sitting around somewhere in the garage.  Also, I
can't remember the price for this kit, but it was the more expensive of the
two.  The JC Whitney catalog listed one kit for gasoline only, and another
kit for gasoline and alcohol.  I opted for the second once since I didn't
know the effects of dry gas and other gas additives.

Anyways, I think there was three parts to the kit.  The first is some sort
of acid.  Since someone else on the list mentioned muriatic acid, I believe
this too might be the same.  The second chemical had an odor of either
rubbing alcohol or MEK.  The last part of the kit is a thick white
paint/glue/coating/something anyways.

You start by removing the sending unit from the tank, since some of them
have plastic floats on the end.  Besides, you won't want to get the final
white stuff on anything like that.

Next, you seal all openings except for one, which you later seal off after
adding the chemical.

Add the acid into the tank along with a couple of boiling gallons of water.
I added about 100 bolts and nuts since my tank had ALOT of scale and other
nasty growths(It sat for about 10 years with a nearly empty tank).

After sealing up the opening you poured the liquids into, shake the living
#### out of it until you feel like your arms are coming off.  The main goal
is to let the shrapnel(sp?) knock off all of the loose stuff.  Also, you'll
need to rotate the tank in all sorts of positions so that the acid has a
chance to etch the tank.  I think it recomended about half of an hour for
this, but I let it work for a couple of hours.

Next you drain this into a container, since I don't think it's the best
thing for your pets(kids) to be drinking.  Use a garden hose to flush all
of the chemical out and help in getting those chunks of crud that has now
been removed from the walls.  Don't forget about all of the other stuff you
added inside the tank.  You'll know when the chemical is out because the
water coming out of the tank won't have that milky look to it anymore.

The next bottle is added, which is that alcohol smelling stuff.  Its
purpose is to help remove all of the remaining water.  I let the air
compressor slowly blow some air into the tank until everything was nice and
dry.

Once this is all done, it's time for that toxic paint stuff.  NOTE: don't
be dumb like me and ignore the label that warns not to inhale the fumes.  I
don't even remember inhaling.  The second that can got near my face, the
fumes blinded my eyes and stopped me from breathing.  I guess some kids get
their kicks from an experience like this, but my one remaining brain cell
is very happy!  Anyways, pour the entire contents into the tank and seal it
up.  Again, the tank needs to be rotated into all sorts of positions so
that this slow moving goop can coat all of the surfaces.  Every once in a
while, I vented the tank and let the air compressor very gently blow some
air into the tank.  Then I'd start the process over again with rotating the
tank.

The venting part is important since the paint stuff is cured with air.  I
did the Scout tank in the winter when it was around 30 degrees, so it took
a couple of days to really harden up.  The first tank I used this stuff on
was done in the summer, and the paint cured in about two hours.  I strongly
suggest though that you do this job outside, or atleast in the garage with
doors wide open.  It's no joke about how toxic the fumes are.  And watch
out when blowing air into the tank so that it doesn't wind up blowing it
right back at you.  You'll be kissing the pavement before you know it.

Ok, I guess I got a little side tracked from the original question, but
this way you'll know the steps involved before purchasing any products like
this.  If interested in the product name, let me know and I'll round up
that other kit.

Oh yeah, for plugging up the tank, I used some old tennis balls for the
fuel inlet opening and for the sending unit opening.  The other vent tubes
got a piece of hose with a bolt jammed in it.  I can't remember if the fuel
outlet tube had a screen on it or not, but if it does, than this needs to
be removed.  Also, every so often, run a piece of wire down the fuel outlet
tube, just in case some of the white goop tries to get in there and blocks
off the opening.  I didn't have this problem with either of my tanks, but
it's just an after thought.

Good luck, and if anyone knows of any other products on the market, could
you drop me a line.  Right now, I'm totally happy with the results of this
product, and there hasn't been anymore signs of corrosion.  Also, the
regular stuff implies, I don't have any affiliation with the manufacturers
or any of the other stuff that some lawyer will bite me on.

Take care,
John Wynne
Sterling, CT
76 Scout Terra(no longer under a blue tarp, the tarp rotted away :-)

P.S.  Sorry for the long post.