RE: Hydraulic or Mechanical clutch - Which would you chose?

[RLIRELAND@domain.elided]

Hi Digesters,

Since this thread has gotten into the finer points of hydraulic clutches, I
thought I'd reopen this question I had a couple of weeks ago.
I have a '65 Scout 80 with a hydraulic clutch. After a transmission rebuild, I
also replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate. The clutch slave cylinder
had been rebuilt previously.
After putting everything back together, I found that I couldn't disengage the
clutch completely. This was thought to be due to  the fact that the system
didn't have a good bleed and the slave cylinder was not fully actuating the
clutch fingers. After a good bleed, the situation improved somewhat. The slave
cylinder rod  (which is NOT adjustable)  that attaches to the clutch fork  was
also lengthened by putting an acorn nut between the slave cylinder piston and
the rod end. The clutch still seems to be "semi-disengaged" during shifting,
like the fingers still aren't being pushed far enough to completely disengage
the clutch.
The new pressure plate was installed as it came out of the box from NAPA. It
was an exact replacement of the original.  I came to find out later from the
shop manual that there are 3 adjustment screws with lock bolts on the pp that
adjust the position of the clutch fingers in or out.
Now for my question: Has anyone actually had experience doing this adjustment
on the pressure plate? Would it be worth a try to fool with these adjustments
to try to get the fingers closer to the throwout bearing? I think I can do it
without removing the pp.
Any help would be appreciated.

Roy Ireland
'65 Scout 80
Tucson, AZ
rlireland@domain.elided