Re: 5000 lb rated tow-bar

["Allan & Kathryn Weidenheimer" <allanw@domain.elided>]

>"Why is my tow-bar rated for 5,000lbs?" and the followup "What
>can I do to safeguard that?  To raise that figure?  Where is my weak
>link?"

Tom:
  The J.C. Whip-Me catalog has some tables on hitch capacities.  
Most class 3 hitch ratings max out at 5,000 lb gross trailer 
weight when not using a weight distributing hitch.  Flat towing
is not the same as a weight distributing hitch, because it
applies NO tongue weight, and does not attempt to apply any
weight to the front of the towed vehicle like a weight distributing
setup does.  Also, check the shank size of the ball you are using,
you can get a 2" ball with a 3/4" shank (3500 lb cap) all the way
up to a 1-3/8" shank (10,000 lb cap).  I run a 1" on mine, (5,000 lb cap)

  If you are serious about towing, get a 7,000lb tandem axle trailer
with electric brakes.  And ideally, a weight distributing hitch.
No screwing with towed vehicle brakes, trouble with the 
front wheels not returning to straight ahead when they should, etc.
Just drive (or winch) it on and chain/strap it to the trailer.  There
is a place down near Chehalis in Washington that pumps out a
real beauty for $1200, brand new.  This solution even works
if you break an axle racing, you just need some type of 
winch to pull it on.  If you gotta flat tow and you break an axle...
yer screwed!!!  
If you look, you can find decent used ones too.  And some
junk home-built ones (not to imply all home buiilt ones are).

Allan Weidenheimer
72 1210 Pickup