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Re: master cylinder



"Abrusci, Mike (NM75)" wrote:

> I have done rear disc brakes and am having problems with the feel of the
> pedal. I have bled the brakes (2 quarts), adjusted the rear e-brake, all new
> calipers, pads and rotors, per Warn I pulled the spring and plunger out of
> the back of the master cylinder. The pedal feels like it goes down too far.
> It seems to stop ok but feels a little spongy. The pedal does not go down
> with continues pressure like a bad master cylinder.
>
> Could this still be air in the line?
> Does disc brakes need positive pressure out of the master cylinder?
> Do I need a disc - disc master cylinder?
> Do Internationals usually have nice hard pedals?
>
> Thanks, Mike

Mike,
This sounds like the brakes are not completely bled. Are you using the Caddy
rear brakes? These are very difficult to bleed and you must have the e-brake
adjusted first. Have you tried a pressure bleeder?
I didn't change out the master cylinder or proportioning valve for my rear disks
(Scout II calipers) and it works great. Nice pedal and stops fast.
If the rear brakes lock up too soon you'll need an adjustable proportioning
valve. Try a couple of panic stops before you buy the valve.  If you do install
an adjustable valve, don't remove the factory valve. The adjustable
proportioning valve does *not* replace the factory valve, you have to use both.

Darrel Kline
Colorado Springs




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