Must turn the rotors.Re: Installing Rotor to Hub?

["Owen" <renarac@domain.elided>]

It's quite a strong system to have the wheel studs hold the rotor in place.
However, you MUST turn the rotors once you remove/replace them. Even *NEW*.
Pressing in studs will warp the rotor some.

Here's a good rule of thumb for eyeballing rotors in the field. Every rotor
has a chamfer on the outside edges. If this chamfer is less than 1/16"
you're most likely pass the spec. However, good parts houses have a book of
specs that lists every rotor ever manufactured and gives tollerances (Bendix
makes a GOOD one). If you look on the rotor, there is a spec for minimum
thickness cast into it, but I can't remember the spec.


----- Original Message -----
From: John A. Landry <jlandry@domain.elided>
To: <ihc@domain.elided>
Cc: <stegmann@domain.elided>; <EldonMcf@domain.elided>
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 1998 8:15 PM
Subject: Installing Rotor to Hub?


> Reapers,
>
> I guess it was my turn to have a weekend with maintenance problems.  Over
the
> last couple of weeks I *thought* I was feeling a strange vibration in my
> Traveler, but I wasn't sure.  I would feel it in the floorboard especially
at
> highway speeds.  I kept telling myself I was imaging it, until this
holiday
> weekend it got bad enough where I was sure it was something wrong.  At
first I
> suspected the driveshaft, u-joints, or rear axle, but after checking them
this
> morning I couldn't find anything wrong.  After another short drive this
> afternoon, I got a feeling the problem might be with the front wheel
bearings.
> So I lifted the front end and shook the tires.  As soon as I felt the
driver's
> side wheel, it was quite apparent that I'd found the problem.  The tire
could
> be moved maybe 1/4" in and out.
>
> I did a little exploratory surgery and discovered the outer wheel bearing
has
> frozen up to the point the race spun in the hub.  To make a long story
short,
> the hub is ruined!  The race dug a nice 1/32" deep groove inside the hub
body.
>
> So now my only choice is to replace the hub.  Luckily I have a couple of
> spares on my parts Traveler I think are serviceable (I hope).  The parts
> Traveler has been sitting a long time and the rotor is very rusty, so I
don't
> think it could be used unless it were turned first.  I'm not sure if
enough
> thickness is left on those old rusty rotors to have them turned.  However,
the
> rotor on the hub that just got ruined was turned within the last two
years,
> and it looks great.
>
> I'm wondering if it would be an acceptable practice to simply swap hubs
but
> keep the same rotor?  I have access to a huge hydraulic press where I work
and
> can do the work myself.  But I've never installed a rotor before and was
> wondering if there are any tips or tricks I should be aware of.  For one
> thing, it certainly appears the rotor is held on to the Scout hub by
nothing
> more than the pressed in threaded wheel studs.  I have a hard time believe
> pressing in studs is all that hold the rotor to the hub, but I guess this
is
> how they did it.  So do I just press out the studs, swap the rotors and
press
> the studs back in?  Can I get by with simply doing the swap and not bother
> with having to turn the rotor again?  I'd like to avoid removing any more
> metal from the rotor if I can help it... I think I'm at the minimum
thickness
> limit.
>
> John H. and I talked about this situation on the telephone, and he recalls
> installing *new* rotors and not having to turn them afterwards.  Is that a
> common and accepted practice?
>
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
>
> Happy holidays,
>
> John L.
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> jlandry AT halcyon DOT com       |
> Conservative Libertarian         |   1976 Red / White / Blue (and rust)
> Life Member of the NRA           |  "Bicentennial" IHC Scout II Traveler
> WA Arms Collectors               |
> Commercial Helicopter - Inst.    | IH Scout - Don't be fooled by the rust!
> http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/  |  It's a disguse to keep yuppies away.
>