Re: Tom's Axles Q's...

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

jmbrodsky@domain.elided wrote:
 
>         No you're not missing anything.  The J10 is a Chevy suspension
>      isn't it?  I was under that impression.  Slightly = 4".  Huge is

It *seems* like a Chevy.. 6lug n' all.. whether the sizes are identical,
I don't know.

>      the Honcho and Gladiator look like they stick way the hell out of

I was thinking the bigger Jeep pickups were older and bigger.. and that
the 70s series were still big, but not HUGE... but what do I know?  I'm
a Scout guy.. :-)

Hmmm.. a friend of mine has a J10 (401V8 & Qudratrac).. maybe I'll get
out the tape measure on his rig next time he drives it to work..

>      rest.  How wide do you want this scout to be?  Why not just cut

I'd be happy if it were stock Scout width.. but Scout front axles are
not easy to come by 'round here.. well, there's one in the garage, but
it's "spoken for" for one of the "good" trucks... at the least, I want
to use it to swap into my '77 in the Spring while I turn the knuckles on
the 4.09 axle that's in it.

>      the fenders all the way out and weld a set of bars to hold the
>      inner and outer together.  

Joel.. you missed my first installment on the racer.. that's what it
*HAD*. :-)

I just finished removing all of that.  The truck started life as a stock
Scout II.  My friend put a cage in it, then took it racing.. first race,
the rear quarters fell off (rust).  They bashed what was left off with a
BFH and finished the day's racing..

He then went back and welded some box tubing to the side of the frame
and then welded it to the rear quarter outers.  Another piece of box ran
along the top of the quarter where the bed rail used to be and attached
to the 'cage.  That was the outer sheet metal on this truck.  The front
clip had been welded together into a tilt.. no inner fenders up there,
either.

Problem is, an open-bed makes the truck a "Comp-mod" class truck... it
puts me in with the 14:1 nitrous + blower crowd, custom chassis,
fiberglass replica bodies, etc... ummm.. NO!  When I'm done, I can
compete in the "stock" class.. if I cut the bed out like it is on the
truck I'm dismantling, I go back up to the nitrous + blower crowd.

(don't get me wrong.. I may try Nitrous.. but I want the option of
racing somewhere I can *compete* y'know?  Then I'll hook the bottle up
and just play for fun with the big boys)

>	Sounds like you're making a stadium truck.  

*nodding vigorously*  YUP!  Sorta anyhow.. not much for "stadium" racing
around here.. but we have "baja" racing (with others on the track,
direct "side-by-side" competition), dirt drag racing, mud bogging,
"one-at-a-time" obstacle course timed racing, and then when the Monster
Trucks come to the Fairgrounds (in Helena, Great Falls, Missoula,
Bozeman, etc) they hold "Tuff Truck" races as well.

My goal is to be able to play at all of 'em and do halfway well.. maybe
not win, but at least not embarass myself. :-)

So.. it needs to be able to jump.  That is a definite requirement.  That
means triple shocks up front (per Pansy), doubles in back, and a tough
suspension lift.. currently thinking of some 4" front lift springs,
optionally add-a-leafs or a spring-over in rear just to keep it roughly
"balanced".. the rear is fine in this type of stuff.. but the front,
with that 700lbs motor.. well, I've raced a stock Scout II with stock
springs, and the landings *HURT* and they're *always* nose-first.  Means
I need travel up front.

Jump, corner, and go-fast.  Slap a different set of tires on it, and do
the mud-bog.  Ideally, I'll tub the rear end to make room for 33s or
35s.. and I'll be able to keep 5 on 5.5.. so when it comes time for mud
bogging, I can unbolt the 33x12.50 Cooper STT Mudders from my daily
driver '77 and put 'em on the racer for the run.

For most stuff, I have 10 stock 235/75R15 all-season radials I don't
want... with low miles on 'em.. but they're cheap tires, so they're
roughly worthless.. so if I trash 'em.. *shrug*

>Better yet, put your hi-lift in the bed, and jack the
>      walls (with boughs of holly?) No, jack the bed wider so the Big3
>      axle with tuck inside still.  Maybe you can make a stadium set of
>      fenders for the front, that allow a wider front end to completely
>      tuck as well.

Now, Joel... stop this!  You know I'm salivating now.. 

I have the current welded-together hood+fenders+grille from the "old
racer".. I have a full set of (dented) fenders and grille on the new
racer.. along with the inners.

I *had* planned on removing the inner fenders and attaching them to the
tilt clip.. weld some square tube in a few places to hold the inners and
outers apart, reinforce the whole mess.. so I can still tilt the whole
thing forward, but when it's "locked" in position, I have inner fenders
to keep mud from the motor..

I *could* just graft the top of the extra set of enders in between the
fenders and hood when I re-weld it together.. and put the inner fenders
in the "stock" location and come up with double wide wheel wells for the
front.

I could then do the same for the rear quarters... 

The tailgate is coming off (so is the top), it has no doors.. so it
might not even look *that* odd.. sure, the fenders would be wider than
the 'cage...

heck, maybe I just cut the fenders like the Comers did to make room for
38x11 Boggers w/o a lift... I don't think any bigger will fit.. you'd
have to start cutting into the firewall for tire clearance..

Hmmmmmmmm....

Hopefully this weekend I'll put a set of rear springs under the other
racer, bolt the T'all axle up as-is (no perches, just bolt it on) and
then use a chain to hook the front crossmember to the bumper of my '77,
and tow the new racer 'round front of the garage.. in reach of the
welding leads.. wow.. I'm making progress!

-Tom