Driveshaft has my goat

[Joe_Costanzo@domain.elided]

Binders,

After a while of pulling, heating, and banging, I'm getting a bit
frustrated, but all in vain.  Here's the deal.  The front drive shaft in my
'79 has a chewed up slip stub.  So, rather than getting something like
repaired (i.e. expensive), I went to a yard and pulled one out of an
automatic '79 (mine is a 4-speed).  Brought it home, and it's been soaking
in 2+2 and ATF for a week now, trying to unseize the slip stub.  I actually
chained the shaft in my Hi-Lift jack in effort to pull it apart, but I'm
now at the point that all my weight on the end of the handle won't make any
more motion, and the slip stub still hasn't slipped even a fraction of an
inch.  So, after doing this over the course of two evenings, I noticed that
the damn yokes are aligned in the same plane, rather than being 90 degrees
out of phase for standard u-joint phasing!  The rear drive shaft is phased
the same way - same plane (and the slip stub actually slips).  So, assuming
I can separate the two halves, are the splines set up in such a way that I
can simply rotate a  one end of the shaft 90 degrees to get the phasing I
need?  Should the splines not be rotated since they're worn in already?  Is
there a trick to sliding the slip stub in the first place?  I find it very
hard to believe that some rust (?) could seize these two parts up so
securely.  (Or am I just showing my "rookiehood" here?)

One other quick question:  the front shaft is longer in an automatic or a
manual?  I found that getting the front shaft out of the auto was tougher,
as it seemed like it was harder to snake the wrench in to get to the clamp
bolts up at the T-case.  Either way, how much longer?  I'm running a 4"
Skyjacker lift, so a bit of extra length would probably be advantageous.

Oh, I'm just a confused novice mechanic wannabe right about now.
Thanks for any input.

Joe Costanzo
'79 Scout II