Disc Brake Conversion M/C

[Chris & Ranae Procyk <procyk19@domain.elided>]

I just re-read the BB article and it emphasizes the use of a disc-brake equipped
Scout m/c as part of the swap- so that's that.

But, of course, one question answered, several more raised--  by 
the article also giving a new setting for the adjustable actuating rod.

Q1:  I wonder if using the '73 1010's m/c instead would obviate
the need for the adjustment, or if it is the identical unit as for the '74-on Scouts.

Q2: If it is the same unit and you were upgrading a drum 1010 from a parts truck disc 1010,
the it follows that you would have to adjust the rod.. right?

Q2: If it isn't the same unit, you'd expect the truck m/c to have  bigger bores
for the larger wheel cylinders-- wouldn't this be a good idea for the BB swap
since you'd still have the same (truck) rear brakes??

Q3: Finally, what m/c did John use when he put the 74/75 8-bolt on the 73?   Are all
three m/cs (1010,74/75 all, 74-on Scout II) the same?? Or all different?  Or what?

Sorry to beat this thread to death, but I think it's a good idea for a lot of us to
do the swap and to also do it as well as possible.

A side comment also: the BB article reminds me to re-emphasize the importance of
finding a decent speed shop and patronizing it (they usually sell stock parts) even at
some cost.  The article has one small machining step, that requires a brake lathe, which
is described as "found in virtually any well-equipped auto parts store."

Yeah, fine, but walk into NAPA and try to get them to use their brake lathe for this purpose!
Speed shops not only have plenty of equipment and expertise, they have people with
very FLEXIBLE minds.  They wouldn't even blink at the request- may even have a few ideas
of their own.


**In Use**
'70 1200D 4x4 Travelette 392 4spd
'73 1210 Wagonmaster, 392 auto
**Prepping for Repaint**
'67 1000B step-side p/up  BG241 + 4spd
**Parts (future projects?)**
'72 1010 T'all  392 at, '67 1000B T'all 266 3sp, '68 1100C 4X4 T'all 345 at