Re: Remote solenoid questions

[Darrel Kline <darrelk@domain.elided>]

Doug Wrote:

At 11:56 AM 9/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
>I posted earlier about my overheated solenoid failure.  I mistakenly
>thought there was a step-by-step how-to in the FAQ.  Nope, just an ad for a
>$30 kit.

Doug,
My thoughts exactly.  We really need to update that FAQ. Maybe whoever is
responsible for the Electrical section can add my instructions.
I wouldn't use the kit. If you buy your own parts you can select exactly
what you need/want. The kit doesn't include new battery cables anyway.

>What Ford solenoid can be used for the remote?  Apparently, the existing
>starter-mounted solenoid still must be used to activate the starter
>shift-lever to engage the pinion.  If we still have to keep the original
>solenoid active, what are we gaining with the remote?  Won't the heat
>problem still affect the working of the original solenoid?  Can someone
>explain this to me?
>
>Doug

The remote solenoid gives you full battery voltage at the starter solenoid.
The ignition switch circuit only uses a 14-gauge wire and doesn't supply
enough current when the starter solenoid is hot. This is more of a
modification for vehicles running headers, but isn't a bad idea for any
vehicle.  Whatever you do, make sure you keep the factory heat shield.  If
your starter is shot that's another problem altogether. This mod also gives
you a great place to connect accessories, like off-road lights, stereo
amplifiers, etc.

I used NAPA part #ST81.  Cost was $14.95.  You'll need a couple of new
battery cables.  One to go from the battery to the solenoid (48"), and one
from the solenoid to the starter (36"). Also, hardware to mount the
solenoid, and various 5/16" and 1/4" ring connectors for 10 and 14 gauge
wire.  BTW: The large terminals on the F*rd solenoid are 5/16", the small
terminals are 3/16".

I mounted the F*rd solenoid to the driver's side of the hood latch on the
firewall. You can use sheet metal screws, or remove the firewall cover and
use nuts and bolts.

Move the "start" wire that is connected to the "S" terminal on the starter
solenoid....to the "S" terminal on the F*rd solenoid.

Move the two wires connected to the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid
(same terminal the battery cable was connected to).....to the large
terminal on the hot side of the F*rd solenoid (side that you will connect
to the battery cable).  You can use either side of the F*rd solenoid as the
hot side, of course, it only makes sense to use the side nearest the
battery.  The large wire is from the ammeter, and the other wire is from
the alternator.

Run a jumper between the "B" and "S" terminals of the starter solenoid. You
can use wire and ring terminals.  A much better way is to cut a metal strap
and drill two holes for the terminals. Coat the strap to prevent rust.

Connect the two battery cables and you're finished.

Darrel Kline
Colorado Springs
1980 Scout