Starting Woes: Part Deux

["Bill Mounteer" <bill@domain.elided>]

>Date: Tue, 3 Mar 1998 16:50:53 -0700 (MST)
>From: DurangoMan <sbaird@domain.elided>
>Subject: Starting Woes: Part Deux
>
> OK, here's what I did:  I went down to Radio Shack, got some 14
>gauge wire and a "momentary on" button.  I ran a wire from the +
>terminal of the battery to the switch, then to the starter solenoid. 
>I cleaned the post on the solenoid meticulously, even filing the 
>nuts a bit so there is a nice, shiny metal contact.  No go.  Key and 
>button have the same effect: radio goes off and absolutely nothing 
>
>else happens.  Does this mean that the problem lies in the solenoid? 
> I have headers and I was told once that the heat from the headers 
>could be detremental to the solenoid function. If it is the 
>solenoid, how easy is that to remove and install?  How much should I 
>expect to pay? How can I prevent the same problem from happening 
>again?  Help me make my Scout live again... ;)
>
>    DurangoMan

When you connect the wire between the battery and the solenoid does 
any current flow? If not check that the solenoid is well grounded, ie 
use a jumper cable between the battery negative post and the case of 
the starter. If still no current flow then the solenoid coil is open. 
Most likely the connection between the terminal post and the coil is 
open. If you have current flow but no starter action, the plunger in 
the center of the solenoid is stuck, a good rap or two with a hammer 
may solve that problem (if it does you should still pull the starter 
and clean the dirt out). 

It may help if you study a shop manual diagram to see how the starter 
works. Essentially the starter motor is controlled by a brute force 
switch, ie two copper studs, one to the motor the other to the 
battery, which are shorted together by a copper washer mounted on the 
end of a plunger driven by a coil (the solenoid). When you turn the 
key to start, power goes to the solenoid coil, this forces the steel 
plunger towards the two copper bolts and closes the circuit between 
the battery and the starter..

So when you apply power to the solenoid, it should make a clicking 
noise as the plunger hits the end  of it's travel. If it does this , 
but the starter motor doesn't power up, then the washer to copper 
bolt connection isn't being made, or the starter ground is bad, or 
the starter motor is toast. To check the solenoid "switch", look 
on the end where the battery feed cable connects, there will be a 
second stud that goes into the starter motor. Use a jumper cable 
between the Positive battery post and the copper post on the solenoid 
that goes into the starter motor. Just touch this connection to see 
if the starter motor kicks in. If it does the solenoid is toast. If 
it doesn't the starter motor is toast.

Hope all this rambling helps.


Bill Mounteer
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Phone (403) 253-7709
Fax   (403) 640-0180
'78 Traveler 345/auto/air/mega rust - being restored
'77 Traveler 345/auto/air/parts supply/currently stolen