RE: Bouncing Travelall

[Jim Grammer <jimg@domain.elided>]

>I just bought a '72 T-all w/all the towing goodies.  It's in great
>shape, overall, but the front end has this tendency to start bouncing
>and KEEP bouncing on the freeway.
>
>It's so new to me that I haven't even had a chance to look at the front
>end.  I'm used to working on my Scout, is there anything about the t-all
>that I should know?
>
>I guess my main question is, if I just put in new shocks, will that just
>cover up a deeper suspension problem?

>It's a 2wd torsion bar AFAIK - haven't been too tempted to crawl 
underneath in all this rain!  Pray for sun this weekend!

Rich -

There are several things to check in this front end, but the bounce you're 
getting is probably shocks. The heaviest duty shocks I have found to date 
are NAPA HD gas charge units. If I felt really ambitious now that I have a 
Rancho shock dimension chart, I'd pull a shock off my '64('73 suspension 
parts) T-all and see if there's an RS 5000 that would fit. With the limited 
wheel travel possible from the torsion bar susp. it may not be a 
significant upgrade from the NAPA shocks.

Other things to check for in general that relate to the health and steering 
accuracy of this wonderful front end(I'm serious, it handles exceptionally 
well for a truck suspension) are:

Control arm bushings...really cracked rubber with chunks sticking out from 
between the inne/outer shells or no rubber visible is bad. OEM style 
bushings are available but not common or particularly cheap. NAPA has to 
special order them, I'd try Rare Parts(www.rareparts.com, if you call tell 
them you're a shop or have a mechanic friend make the call)first for these. 
I'd really like to know if there's a dimensional equivalent in urethane now 
that there are lots of car control arm bushings made, but I don't have any 
listings of control arm bushing dimensions from any of the urethane 
suppliers like Energy or Daystar. I replaced mine when I redid the bare 
chassis, so I'm good for another few years at least.

Ball joints...standard ball joint wear checks that you'd do for any 
suspension sprung at the top control arm. Procedure is shown in any 
Chilton's/Motors generic front end section or the IH shop manual. Loose 
joints will make the wheels go wibbledy wobble ;). New ones are available 
from Rare Parts for as cheap as I've found, which isn't very.

Tie rod ends...lots of them in this suspension, but readily available. 
Standard 'squeeze with channel locks'(anybody still call 'em water pump 
pliers?) test for wear.

Idler arm...This is a biggy...a small amount of vertical play translates to 
a huge loss of steering precision and funky tire wear. IIRC, readily 
available and if I had a worn out one I'd look for one of the new 'super 
duty' units I've seen hawked in mag's.

Sway bar bushings...source of strange noises mostly...replace 'em all with 
generic urethane pieces...'nuf said.

That's 'bout all I can think of OTTOMH, Chris P. may have more tips...

All this stuff is pretty straightforward to check, the bummer'll be if it 
needs everything at once...;(

It'll be sunny all weekend...I sold my soul for it...;)

Jim