alarms

[rhughes@domain.elided]

     >> >>>for easy access to the dash innards.   I'll also redo the wiring
     while I'm
     >at it, and I'm thinking of trying to fabricate a metal box behind the
     glove
     >compartment door to hold my CD changer -- the area is too small as it
     is,
     >so I thought I'd snag a bigger door from an IH truck, fit it with a
     lock,
     >and affix the metal box behind that.
   >>Hmm.. just my $0.02, but if you were a car stereo theif, where would
   you
   look first?  GLOVEBOX.  In fact, when the CD player was stolen from my
   '77
   this summer, the thieves also opened the glove box.. left it open with
   my
   wallet (cards n' all) and check book sitting on the glovebox door,
   untouched.. they didn't find a stereo in there, so they took the CD
   player
   and ran.
Good point.  Of course I'd planned on fitting it with a lock, but it better
be pretty strong.

   >>I'm planning on installing my 10 disc changer in the bucket seat base
   under
   the driver.. make a hole just big 'nuff on the front of the seat base
   for
   the access panel, and you're set.  Mount the changer as high up as
   possible
   to avoid any water issues.

I'd thought about this space, but my changer won't fit.  (10 disc, Denon)

What about alarms?  I've been thinking of cooking up a homemade alarm
system while I redo my wiring.  I was thinking about a mercury switch (are
these readily available?), rigged to close when the truck gets jostled.
Arm the system with a regular radio-controlled thingie.

Maybe I could also incorporate a glove box door alarm.  What if you powered
the door itself, then made sure that it didn't conduct to the dash --
rubber grommets around screws, lock mechanism, etc.   When a thief inserted
a screwdriver to pry open the door, he'd close the circuit between door and
dash, triggering the alarm?   Probably wouldn't work if it relied on the
entire dash as part of the circuit.  What if, on the inside lip of the
glove comp, you lined it with rubber, on top of which you could affix a
metal frame which would serve as the other part of the circuit -- insulated
by the rubber from the rest of the dash.

Is any of this remotely feasible, or am I coming down with a case of
Manderitis?

Rob