Re: Battery Feed Connector

[jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)]

BSlykhouse <BSlykhouse@domain.elided> scribbled in the sand:

>    Where is this connector? On top of the fuse block? Somewhere mounted on
>something?  Where inside the cab? You addressed the 94 amp alternator issue
>pretty good in V5 #93.

Bruce,

I presume you're talking about my posting to the Digest regarding upgrading
the wiring when installing a higher output alternator?  If so, then the main
battery feed wiring I was referring to is actually part of one of the Amphenol
brand plastic multi-pin connectors used on the Scout II firewall.  You see,
the alternator is connected to a 10 gauge wire, which passes through the
firewall into the cab by means of a multi-pin connector known as the "engine
harness bulkhead connector."  The engine harness bulkhead connector is the
lower of the two rectangular shaped plastic connectors (with a circular rubber
cover) on the passenger side of the firewall.  Several other smaller gauge
wires also pass through this connector besides the 10 gauge wire coming from
the alternator.

The alternator wire continues from the connector directly to the ammeter in
the dash.  Another 10 gauge wire returns from the ammeter back to the engine
harness bulkhead connector, where from there it continues down to the "B"
terminal on the starter solenoid.  The positive battery cable is also
connected to the solenoid "B" terminal.  In this way, the alternator supplies
power to the electrical system an ultimately the battery.

The pins inside the bulkhead connectors are famous for oxidizing and
corroding.  Corrosion leads to high resistance at the connection.  High
resistance and high current flow means lots of heat.  Heat and plastic mean a
melted connector.  The multi-pin connector in a 20+ year old Scout is marginal
at best even with stock wiring, but when you upgrade your alternator to one of
potentially high output, you're really asking for trouble.  The new alternator
could be capable of generating sufficient current flow to melt the connector,
and in a worst case scenario, cause a fire.  Even the stock 10 gauge wiring is
marginal when running a high amp alternator.

In my case, I replaced the stock multi-pin connectors with twist-on plastic
Amphenol connectors.  I also added a new metal cased two-pin twist-on
connector next to the plastic ones.  This new connector is strictly for the
aforementioned alternator to ammeter and return cables.  I replaced the stock
10 gauge wires with 4 gauge welding wire to handle any future load expansion I
might need.  At the last NW Binder Roundup, I noticed that many other Scout
owners dealt with their corroded and melted connectors, usually by eliminating
them altogether.  I saw everything from wire nuts to crimped butt connectors,
but almost all with lots of electrical tape.  A few still had the original
connectors.

Hope this help to clear things up.

Regards,

John
------------------------------------------------------------------------
jlandry@domain.elided             |
Conservative Libertarian        |  Scout(R) the America others pass by
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Commercial Helicopter - Inst.   | 1976 Scout Traveler, V345A, 727, 3.54
http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/ |