[Re: Removing Brake Drums]

[Thomas Kiene <thomasrb@domain.elided>]

ihc-digest wrote:
> 

> Subject: Re: Removing Rear Brake Drums
> 
> One trick I've used to get rear drums off when they are rusted to the
> center hub is to jack up the rear and remove the wheels.  Then start the
> engine and run the axle up to about 25 mph in high, depress the clutch,
> and stab the brakes.  Repeat this in reverse and repeat the whole cycle
> several times.  After several cycles, you should hear the clunk as the
> studs move slighly in their holes.  If this is happening, you'll soon
> have the center loose enough to pull the drum off.
> 
> This has not always worked and I've had to rent a puller to get the drums
> off, but generally it has.  Obviously, this is of no help if your drums
> are worn deep enough that the ridge catches on the brake shoes as you try
> to pull them off.
> 
> Howard Pletcher
> Howteron Products Scout Parts
> 

Hello,

I have never heard this trick above before.

The method I have used for years on GM and J*** products (and the first
time on my 79 Scout 2 weeks ago) is as follows:

Just try pulling by hand while tapping on the backside of the drum with
a big rubber hammer.Sometimes that is enough.

If the drum is loose from the axle hub, but will not come off, the brake
shoes need adjusting in. This is done as mentioned in earlier posts.
Either knock out, use the access hole for this purpose. I use a small
slotted screwdriver to hold up the racket lever and then turn the star
wheel backwards with an adjusting tool or another wider bladed
screwdriver. Then the drum will come right off.

IF the drum is not loose from the axle hub, I will usually spray a
little WD-40 or similiar material on the drum to hub joint. Then I use a
small tire tool (a BIG slotted screwdriver would also work) to pry out
on the drum on one side while hitting the backside of the drum opposite
the prybar. I use the same large rubber hammer but a small sledge hammer
would work. The trick is to apply pressure with the prybar while jarring
it free with the hammer. Too much pressure with the prybar can bend the
backing plate so be cautious. Hit too hard with a sledge hammer you can
also damage the drum (and wheel bearings?). I will sometimes need to
swap the prybar and hammer from side to side in order to wiggle the drum
loose .
I also understand that you can buy or rent a drum puller (likely like a
larger gear puller) but I have never needed to go this route.


John L.

Sorry I never got back on the broken dipsticks. I have been out of town
and behind on other things as well. The reason I believe they broke is
that the dipstick bends everytime it is inserted or removed due to the
curve of the tube. Since a notch is used to mark the full line, this
results in a stress point that will eventualy fatigue and fail. If I
ever  decide to make a driver out of the 75, I will need to find a
source for one that is not broken off at the full mark.

Thomas Kiene

79 Scout II (345, 4V, 727, 4" springs, semi-daily driver)
75 Scout II (rust bucket)
88 J*** XJ (4" lift, 31" BFG MTs, EZ Locker, & just turned 200K miles)
Various GM toys