Replies...Speedo box, transmission, hood latch

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

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        Mark,

        That box is the Cruise control transducer.  When hooked up
properly, one vacuum line goes to a vacuum source (unported), one 
vacuum line goes to the cruise control throttle modulator.  Basically
the modulator is a diaphragm that pulls on the throttle lever.  One 
end of the cable goes to the transmission and the other goes to the 
speedo.  The transmission cable actually spins a kind of 
gyroscope-governor type thing that opens the valve for vacuum when 
your input (trans) cable slows down.

        I wouldn't take it off unless:  It was currently non-functional,
or, you really need the space.  You'll have to get a new cable with the correct 
length and ends, if you take it out, as the cables into the transducer are same 
sex.  The transducer take male cables.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 11:22:51 -0400
From: Mark Prescott <cn1135@domain.elided>
Subject: Speedo thing

I'm trying to figure out what is in between the upper and lower 
speedometer cables in my nephews 71 scout II.  It has a circular 
appearance, has Holley written on it and has two vacuum lines attached. 
The lines aren't hooked up to anything. The only thing I've seen close 
to this is a two-speed adapter on a heavy truck that changes with a 
two-speed axle. I have no idea why one would be on the scout.  
<snip>
Mark Prescott
77SSII and lots of parts!!

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        John,

        Just to pick at nits here, with a suction gun you can remove fluid
directly out of the filler/dipstick tube.

        Also check the torque convertor to see if it is equipped with a drain 
plug.  You can get about a quart and a half more fluid out by draining the 
convertor.  There should be a 1/4 pipe plug on the 'inside' edge of the 
convertor.


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 18:32:46 GMT
From: jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)
Subject: Re: Transmission gasket

<snip>
Add fluid in small amounts and check often.  It's easy to overfill if you
start dumping quart after quart in without checking.  The only way to drain
fluid back out if you overfill is to once again loosen the pan bolts.

<snip>
John

jlandry@domain.elided             |


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Dean,

        First off check for a bent or damaged release cable.  If you take your 
glove box out you can see a coil inside the dash.  If it is kinked, bent or 
broken, then you're screwed.  Try to get a new one, or clean that one up very 
nice.  If the cable breaks then you're hard pressed to get the hood open at all,
so make sure everything is tip top.  The other thing is when you get done, make 
sure everything works smoothly.  I know of no way to open the hood when the 
cable breaks short of removing sections of steel with vigorous instruments.  On 
Corvettes there are two latches at the cowl, one on each side, if the cable 
breaks on that you can reach up from the bottom of the car to toggle the latch. 
On the Scout II with one in the middle, good luck.
        
        The hood latch is dependent on several things.  

 
        The biggest contributor to the binding latch is the alignment of the 
sprag and the latch which is commonly goofed if you've ever loosened the four 
bolts at either of the hood hinges.  Put a piece of cardboard over the latch and
see where the sparg 'punches' it.  There is an 11/16" nut on the sprag and a 
screwdriver (slotted regular) slot in the end.  If the sprag is physically too 
short then it will latch briskly and openeing will be difficult.  Don't loosen 
the nut too far, as the sprag will 'float' in a 1" hole in the hood.  The sprag 
has a huge washer behind it to allow you to adjust 1/2" in any direction to 
adjust the alignment.  The range of extension of the sprag is about +/- 3/8".  
If it pulls out (you unscrewed the whole sprag) it should be an easy job to get 
it threaded again, just make sure to keep the washer between the captive nut and
the hood.
       
        The second biggest contributor to the binding of the release is the 
amount of bow in your hood. If the edges contact the bumpers on the side of the 
cowl, THEN the sprag pushes into the latch, there can be an excessive amount of 
bending of your hood required to latch the sprag.  The solution to this is 
actually to bend the hood.  I put 2x4s on the corners by the bumpers and gently 
pushed in the center of the hood to reduce the amount of bow at the cowl.  This 
is the major part.  You can also raise/lower the bumpers.

        When you finally get the hood open, does it burst out and leap up about 
4" or so?  Try the above.  If it pops up normally 1" above the cowl, I'd suspect
a bad cable.

        Let me know what works,


     -Joel Brodsky

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.

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Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 14:27:46 -0600 (CST)
From: "Dean L. Kellogg, Jr" <kelloggd@domain.elided>
Subject: Hood latch problems

Hi,

I have been fighting with the hood release mechanism on my 1980 Scout II
for quite some time.  It is so hard to release that I have pulled the knob
off and now must grab the remaining stub with vice-grips.  I spent the
weekend trying to realign the hood and latch mechanisms...all to no avail.
It seems that the spring on the latch mechanism is "overly strong".  Does
anyone have suggestions on how to attack this problem?

        ****************************************************************
       * Dean L. Kellogg, Jr., MD, PhD                                  *
       * Department of Medicine                                         *
       * The University of Texas Health Science Center at San Antonio   *
       * 7703 Floyd Curl Drive                                          *
       * San Antonio, Texas 78284-7875                                  *
       * (210) 617-5311  FAX (210) 617-5312 e-mail:kelloggd@domain.elided *
        ****************************************************************
       

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