Re: 76 scout II questions

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

On Mon, 10 Nov 1997 ScoutFreak@domain.elided wrote:
> 
> i have finally obtained the 76 scout from my grandfather. i had to bid on it
> at his farm sale in oklahoma. i bought it for  $2200. it has only 41k miles

Wow!  What a great deal!  I paid $1700 for my 54k mile '72 Scout II, 
complete with rusted body mounts/fender/floor, surface rust on the 
hood/roof, shot 3spd, and lots of other extras.. at the time, I thought 
it was a good deal..

> brand of tires and wheels to put on it. superlift said we would have no
> problem installing 33in. tires. has anybody done this and if so was it

I've been told by several reputable sources, that a 4" lift will NOT 
*quite* clear 33s (at least, 33x12.50) without a little rubbing, or 
fender trimming.  The other option is a 1" (good hockey pucks, or some 
plastic stock) body lift, which should clear things up.

You may also have problems with the rear tires rubbing the front side of 
the fenders, if that happens you'll need to either trim, or re-drill the 
center pin in the springs a 1/2" or 1" back.

> successful. goodyear has a tire called the ats. to get it in a 33in. tire i
> have to go to a 16in. wheel. the tire is only 9in. wide. is it better to go
> with a wider tire and rim?

Common 'wheeler opinion is that anything that says "Wrangler" on it is 
about worthless.

Wider tires give better stability, but weigh more, and thus put more 
stress on steering components.  12.50" wide tires also will have a better 
chance of rubbing the edge of your fenders than 9.5" tires will.

BFG makes the most popular tires, either the AT or MT, with 3-ply 
sidewalls, in either 33x9.50 or 33x12.50 on either 8" or 10" x 15" 5-lug 
wheels. (See JEEP, and FORD wheels, 5 on 5.5)

For off-road, most people agree the Super Swampers rule.  But on the 
street, expect 40k if you're lucky.

I have only owned a set of 31x10.50" BFG Trail TAs, so my opinion comes 
purely from what I've gathered from posts by others here on the 'Digest, 
and on the Off-road mailing lists.

(BTW, anyone heard of Kumho tires?  Local guy swears by 'em)

> goodrich mud tires and they seem to be very wide. if i went that route i
> would probably have to install fender flares, what do you think would look
> and drive the best? 

Flares wouldn't be necessary, but would be helpful.  Check out the '97 
NWbinder photos I took (http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout) and look at a 
red Rallye Scout II, lookin' pretty nice.  It sports about 5" of lift, 
with 33x12.50" tires and flares.  If you visit the NWBinder home page 
(look on the www.binderbulletin.com for the URL, or the IHC-Webring) 
you'll see a photo of the SAME red Rallye from the year before, without 
the fender flares.  I *think* the suspension stayed the same.  (Rob 
Marks?  Can you tell I like Curt's Scout yet??)

> who makes the best liquid applied bed liners on the market? i only want the
> best for this cherry scout.  

I think Rhino Lining is probably the "top," but there is PLENTY of 
competition.  I was quoted about $500 to have my tub Rhino'd after I take 
everything out and do some of the prep work.

While you're at it, you'll want to make sure the rockers are in good 
shape, then have the entire lower line of the Scout's body Rhino Lined 
(or whatever lining).. get the rocker panels, and everything forward and 
aft of the doors on the same line.. it'll keep rocks and such from 
nicking your paint.  Also look at having the wheel wells lined, and maybe 
the front body mounts if you can (if they're CLEAN)

> i am considering a custom built roll bar,  but i want some type of  soft top
> for rain protection, who makes the best soft top for the custom roll bar? any
> info on this would help. 

Custom roll bar?  Plenty of aftermarket "bolt ins" available.  I've 
purchased two "Truck Bar" factory repros' from Giddum Up Scout in 
Colorado Springs.  I bought the 5 piece bolt-together for about $200 
delivered.  You bolt it together using 4 Grade-8 bolts, then drill the 
holes for the mounting plates that go 1) on the "step" and 2) on top of 
the rear fenders.  There ya go, factory 'bar.

You can also look at a Smittybilt Front Cage Kit ($90), that is a weld-in 
part.  You'll get two bars that go up the dash and back to the rollbar, 
and one cross bar to go across the top of the windshield.  It welds to 
the rollbar, and then you'll want to extend the "feet" in front to come 
over to the stock body mount bolt.

Note: remove your stock floor matting, it just holds water on the floor 
boards to rot 'em through.

Bestop and Kayline both manufacture soft tops for the Scout.  I believe 
Kayline is going to be working with us in the spring to make some new 
soft tops for the Scouts.. a tonneau cover for "sure", and maybe a 
"windjammer", Suntanner, or a full Traveler soft top.  If you opt for the 
Kayline unit, you might want to drop them an email and tell 'em why you 
chose theirs over the Bestop.

Blaker@domain.elided Blake T. Robinson, President of Kayline Manufacturing.

> i want to install disc brakes for the rear, any body know who makes the best
> rear conversions? do i have to change master cylinders or not?  

TJM makes one, no experience.  Jim Weed runs through the details of a 
custom rear disc conversion at http://www.off-road.com/~jweed

> my scout buddy told me that front reverse shackle makes the scout drive
> better on the highway, is this a true statement and if so how does it work?  

I've heard it's true.. enough that my '72 is getting this treatment over 
the winter.  It works by allowing the front axle to "roll" rearwards when 
you hit a bump, rather than the stock configuration that forces it to go 
*forward* when you hit a bump.  

> it looks to me that i am going to have to change the front prop shaft due to
> the 4in. lift. who makes the best cv type prop shaft? 

You'll NEED to have the front axle cut/twisted/rewelded, per Jim's 
instructions (again, at http://www.off-road.com/~jweed).  I was quoted 
$100 to have this done, after I tear the axle down to just the housing 
with differential.

You'll need to measure the angle from your axle tube to your transfer 
case output yoke, vs. what the current angle (0) is.  Then have the weld 
around the knuckles ground out, the knuckles turned (turn 'em about 4 
degrees farther than you think you want), re-weld, the put the guts back 
in.  Then put in a 4-degree shim to remove the extra 4 degrees of "up" 
tip, giving your *knuckles* an overall 4 degrees of CASTER, while the 
pumpkin points upwards at 12 degrees (or whatever you need, I don't 
know).  This will also help your Scout track better down the road.

Whew.

Any more questions?  I seem to be a repository for lots of IH related 
info.. (or, maybe I'm just nuts??)

-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout
'72 and '77 IH Scout IIs
Big plans for the '72.. just gotta run through court to get it back! :-(